沒有雞尾酒 好萊塢或許完全不同
Soon after the first reel of celluloid unspooled in Hollywood, the cocktail shakers began chattering. When Garbo first spoke, in the 1930 film “Anna Christie,” she ordered a drink: “Gimme me a whiskey, ginger ale on the side. And don’t be stingy, baby.”
好萊塢的第一卷電影膠捲開始放映不久，雞尾酒調酒器就開始晃動了。嘉寶(Garbo)在1930年影片《安娜·克里斯蒂》(Anna Christie)中說的第一句話就是：“給我來一杯威士忌，加點薑汁汽水。別摳門兒，寶貝。”
Mixed drinks loom large in the Movies because they can do all sorts of things, and send all kinds of messages. They can establish character, set up a romantic scene, introduce a plot twist, ignite a gag.
調和酒在電影中很是顯眼，因爲它有很多作用，能傳遞各種信息。它可以塑造人物，營造浪漫氣氛，引出情節轉折點或笑點。
Without too much effort it is possible to map out a cocktail trail that wends its way from the earliest silent films to the 21st century with nary a break, not even for Prohibition. Especially not for Prohibition, when America was dry but the movies were soaking wet.
不必太費力，你就能繪製出雞尾酒的發展圖譜，從最早的默片時代到21世紀，沒有任何間斷，甚至包括禁酒時期。尤其是在禁酒時期，當時的美國滴酒不見，電影裏倒是觥籌交錯。
This is precisely what the British writers Will Francis and Stacey marsh have done in “Cocktails of the Movies: An Illustrated Guide to Cinematic Mixology,” a fond survey of more than 150 bibulous scenes, from “Caught in a Cabaret,” a 1914 Mack Sennett film, to last year’s “Grand Budapest Hotel.”
英國作家威爾·弗朗西斯(Will Francis)和斯泰茜·馬什(Stacey Marsh)在《電影中的雞尾酒：電影調酒術圖解指南》(Cocktails of the Movies: An Illustrated Guide to Cinematic Mixology)一書中做的正是這件事。該書饒有興致地研究了150多幕飲酒場景，從1914年麥克·森尼特(Mack Sennett)導演的《侍者》(Caught in a Cabaret)到去年的《布達佩斯大酒店》(Grand Budapest Hotel)。
It’s a big topic. A thoroughgoing treatment of the subject would run to a thousand pages, and an equal number of cocktails. (If you don’t find what you’re looking for in “Cocktails of the Movies,” published last month, you might find it in another new book, “Cocktail Noir: From Gangsters and Gin Joints to Gumshoes and Gimlets,” by Scott M. Deitche, who doesn’t limit himself to movies but covers some of the same liquid ground.)
這是一個宏大的主題。要詳盡地講述這個主題，需要寫上1000頁，提到1000種雞尾酒（如果你在上月出版的《電影中的雞尾酒》中沒有找到你想要的，那麼你可以看看另一本新書《黑色雞尾酒：從黑幫到酒館到警察到兼烈雞尾酒》[Cocktail Noir: From Gangsters and Gin Joints to Gumshoes and Gimlets]。這本書的作者是斯科特·M·戴奇[Scott M. Deitche]，他不是隻講電影中的雞尾酒，不過提到了一些相關的雞尾酒）。
Think of movie cocktails as drinkable Oscars, a timeline of supporting performances that chime neatly both with the coming awards season (beginning with the Gotham Independent Film Awards a little over a week from now) and one of the most highly anticipated cocktail moments in recent movie history. In “Spectre,” a runaway hit after two weeks in theaters, Daniel Craig, as James Bond, forgoes his traditional vodka martini with lemon twist. Instead, in a meaningful shared moment with Léa Seydoux, as the brainy and beautiful psychologist Madeleine Swann, he orders a dirty martini, ingredients unstated, although three little skewered olives can be seen in the glass.
你可以把電影中的雞尾酒看作可以飲用的奧斯卡獎，看作支持表演的時間線，它與即將到來的頒獎季（從大約一週後的哥譚獨立電影獎[Gotham Independent Film Awards]開始）和近年電影史上最受期待的一個雞尾酒時刻完美契合。《007之幽靈黨》(Spectre)已上映兩週，大受歡迎。丹尼爾·克雷格(Daniel Craig)在片中飾演的詹姆斯·邦德(James Bond)拋棄了他一向喜歡的加檸檬的伏特加馬提尼。在與萊婭·塞杜(Léa Seydoux)飾演的聰明迷人的心理學家馬德萊納·斯旺(Madeleine Swann)共度一個重要時刻時，他點的是渾濁馬提尼，成分不明，不過能看到玻璃杯中有三個串起來的小橄欖。
It goes down easy. The same can be said for quite a few of the filmic cocktails celebrated in the Francis and Marsh book. I found, when mixing a selection and checking out a film or two on the list, that a good rye Manhattan does wonders to make even the slowest scene glide by.
我可以一直講下去。弗朗西斯和馬什的書中讚美的電影中的好幾種雞尾酒都是這樣。我調好一種雞尾酒，觀看榜單上的一兩部電影，結果發現，一杯上好的黑麥曼哈頓雞尾酒真的能創造奇蹟，甚至能讓最緩慢的場景飛馳而過。
The cocktail is just a gag in “Caught in a Cabaret,” a silent Charlie Chaplin film with funny intertitles by his brother Sydney. In one scene, Mabel Normand, playing a pampered young thing, stands outside her palatial home and, asked by a factotum if there are any orders for the groom, says, “Yes, tell him to mix me a ‘Horse’s Neck.’”
在《侍者》中，雞尾酒只是一個笑料。這部電影是查理·卓別林(Charlie Chaplin)主演的一部默片，他哥哥西德尼(Sydney)在片中加上了有趣的字幕。在其中一幕裏，梅布爾·諾曼德(Mabel Normand)飾演的養尊處優的年輕女子站在她華麗的房子外面，當管家問她要不要給新郎點些什麼時（order也有命令的意思——譯註），她說，“是的，讓他給我調一杯馬頸雞尾酒(Horse’s Neck)。”
The drink is nothing great, only whiskey and ginger ale with a twist of lemon, served in a highball glass, but it doesn’t have to do much here — just raise a laugh. The cocktail itself does not even make an appearance.
這款雞尾酒沒什麼特別的，就是威士忌和薑汁麥芽啤酒，再加點兒檸檬，盛放在高球杯裏，不過在這裏它的做法無關緊要，提到它只是爲了引人發笑。雞尾酒本身甚至沒有露面。
It’s quite otherwise with the lovingly prepared Old Fashioned in “Crazy, Stupid, Love.” The cocktail as instrument of seduction has a long cinematic pedigree. So does the romantic lead who’s a dab hand with a cocktail shaker. But Ryan Gosling, a wolf on the prowl, adds a 21st-century, artisanal ingredient to the formula. With practiced hands, before the camera’s leering lens, he drips Angostura bitters on a sugar cube at the bottom of a heavy glass, gently pours two fingers of exquisitely priced bourbon, adds ice with a silver spoon. Then, with surgical precision, he detaches a broad swath of peel from an orange and squeezes it, ever so gently, causing its volatile oils to spray a mist over the surface of the drink. This he presents, like a chalice, to Emma Stone.
在《瘋狂愚蠢的愛》(Crazy, Stupid, Love)中，古典雞尾酒的調製過程則得到精心呈現。雞尾酒作爲一種引誘方式在電影中由來已久。浪漫的主人公是調製雞尾酒的高手，這也是慣用套路。不過，情場高手瑞恩·戈斯林(Ryan Gosling)在配方中加了一種21世紀手工藝配料。在攝像機傾斜的鏡頭前，他用靈活的雙手，把安戈斯圖拉苦汁滴到厚重玻璃杯底的方糖上，輕柔地倒了兩指寬昂貴的波本威士忌，用銀勺加冰。然後，以外科醫生般的精準，割下一條寬寬的橘皮，非常輕柔地擠壓，讓它易揮發的油汁在雞尾酒的表面噴出薄霧。然後他像捧着聖盃一樣，把這杯雞尾酒遞給了埃瑪·斯通(Emma Stone)。
Equally revealing is Jake Gyllenhaal’s signature drink in “Zodiac,” the Aqua Velva. It is a ridiculous concoction, tinted with blue to look like Aqua Velva after-shave, and served, in one of the film’s bar scenes, with a little pink umbrella anchored in a big straw.
在《十二宮殺手》(Zodiac)中，傑克·吉倫哈爾(Jake Gyllenhaal)的標誌性雞尾酒Aqua Velva也同樣得到詳細展示。它是一種不可以思議的混合物，加有藍色庫拉索酒，看起來像Aqua Velva鬚後水。上酒的時候，配有一根大吸管，上面插着一把小粉傘。它是在這部電影的諸多酒吧場景的其中一幕中出現的。
Robert Downey Jr., as a tough crime reporter investigating the 1970s Zodiac murders in San Francisco, eyes the drink suspiciously. “This can no longer be ignored,” he says. “What is that you’re drinking?” Mr. Gyllenhaal answers: “It’s an Aqua Velva. You wouldn’t make fun of it if you tried it.”
小羅伯特·唐尼(Robert Downey Jr.)在片中飾演一名調查20世紀70年代舊金山十二宮謀殺案的強硬的刑事案件記者。他充滿疑慮地盯着那杯雞尾酒，說道：“我不能再假裝沒看見它了。你喝的是什麼？”吉倫哈爾回答道：“它叫Aqua Velva雞尾酒。如果你喝過它，就不會嘲笑它。”
It’s the perfect cocktail for a goofy and guileless former Boy Scout, who drinks it through the straw. It also contains a secondary meaning. It says that Mr. Gyllenhaal’s character, a political cartoonist determined to crack the coded messages sent by the Zodiac Killer, thinks outside the box. His innocent curiosity leads him to connections and clues that jaded investigators ignore. The fact that Mr. Downey takes the Aqua Velva plunge — together, he and Mr. Gyllenhaal polish off a tableful of the drinks — says something about him too.
這款雞尾酒太適合這位蠢笨誠實的前童子軍了。他是用吸管喝的。它還包含着另一層含義：吉倫哈爾飾演的這個角色能跳出固有思維模式。這位政治漫畫家下定決心破解十二宮殺手發出的密碼信息。他天真的好奇心促使他發現了疲憊不堪的調查者們忽視的聯繫和線索。而唐尼一口喝下Aqua Velva雞尾酒，也透露出他的性格。他和吉倫哈爾幹掉了滿滿一桌子這種雞尾酒。
The book includes, as it must, the Dude’s White Russian (in Dude-speak, a Caucasian) from “The Big Lebowski” and Carrie Bradshaw’s Cosmopolitan in “Sex and the City.” (No room for the Flirtini, alas.) Good taste is not the criterion. If it were, the book would shut the door on the Godzilla of modern mixed-drink movies.
這本書中還提到了（也必須提到）《謀殺綠腳趾》(The Big Lebowski)中主人公Dude的白色俄羅斯雞尾酒（White Russian：Dude稱之爲高加索雞尾酒）以及《慾望都市》(Sex and the City)中凱莉·布拉德肖(Carrie Bradshaw)的大都會雞尾酒（Cosmopolitan，可惜呀，沒給調情雞尾酒[Flirtini]留點空間）。夠不夠有品味不是這本書的評價標準。如果是那樣的話，這本書就不會提到現代調酒電影中的那部鉅作了。
“Cocktail” is its name. Released in 1988, with Tom Cruise as Brian Flanagan, a flashy mixologist on the make, the film is to bartending what “Showgirls” was to pole dancing, a rank embarrassment that survived to become a perverse classic.
那部電影的名字就叫《雞尾酒》(Cocktail)，1988年上映，湯姆·克魯斯(Tom Cruise)在其中飾演愛炫技的雄心勃勃的調酒師布萊恩·弗拉納根(Brian Flanagan)。就像《豔舞女郎》(Showgirls)主要是講跳鋼管舞；這部電影主要是講調酒，儘管它的類別有些尷尬，但它還是意外地成爲一部經典電影。
Along with the cavalcade of bad 1980s hair and worse 1980s music, “Cocktail” encapsulates an egregious mini-era in drink culture, an overheated time when “flair” bartending first emerged, a flamboyant style of mixing that required bartenders to toss shakers in the air and catch them behind their backs.
《雞尾酒》完全體現了80年代的潮流，裏面的髮型一個比一個難看，音樂更是難聽，但是它濃縮了飲酒文化中一個驚人的小時代，當時“炫技型”調酒剛剛興起，過於火熱，炫技方式包括把搖壺扔到空中，從背後接住。
There are actually only three drinks that the audience sees being mixed: a Red Eye, a daiquiri and a Turquoise Blue, but the film is an encyclopedia of period drinks, most of them shouted out by customers crowding the bar, and too many of them involving peach schnapps: the Cuba Libre, the Alabama Slammer, the Orgasm, the White Fly, the Friar Tuck, the Ding-a-Ling, the Dirty Mother, the Jus d’Amour, and the Death Spasm, which Heywood Gould, the former bartender who wrote the novel “Cocktail,” later said he invented when writing the screenplay for the film. He described it as a mixture of gin, absinthe and Fleischmann’s rye “shaken very cold and thrown down in one shot.” Think of it as the godchild of the Depth Bomb that W. C. Fields drinks at the Black Pussy Cat Cafe in “The Bank Dick.”
實際上，觀衆在那部電影中只看到三種雞尾酒的調製過程：紅眼雞尾酒(Red Eye)、得其利雞尾酒(daiquiri)和藍色情調(Turquoise Blue)雞尾酒，不過那部電影是那個時代酒水的百科全書，大部分酒名是擁擠酒吧裏的客人們喊出來的，大多含有桃色荷蘭烈酒：自由古巴雞尾酒(Cuba Libre)、阿拉巴馬監獄雞尾酒(Alabama Slammer)、亢奮雞尾酒(Orgasm)、粉蝨雞尾酒(White Fly)、修道士塔克雞尾酒(Friar Tuck)、Ding-a-Ling雞尾酒、壞媽媽雞尾酒(Dirty Mother)、Jus d’Amour雞尾酒和死亡痙攣雞尾酒(Death Spasm)。《雞尾酒》這本小說的作者、曾經的酒保海伍德·古爾德(Heywood Gould)後來說，死亡痙攣雞尾酒是他在爲這部電影寫劇本時發明的。他說，這款雞尾酒是用杜松子酒、苦艾酒和弗萊施曼黑麥威士忌(Fleischmann’s)調製而成的，“加很多冰搖晃，然後一飲而盡”。你可以把它看作是《銀行妙探》(The Bank Dick)中W·C·菲爾茨(W. C. Fields)在黑貓咪咖啡館(Black Pussy Cat Cafe)喝的深水炸彈雞尾酒(Depth Bomb)的教子。
We are a long way from the world of “The Thin Man,” and the cocktails that William Powell attacks early in the day. The Bronx, the Martini, the Manhattan — these are the enduring classics that, inevitably, lead to the morning-after scene involving an ice bag on the head. Mr. Francis and Ms. Marsh enshrine the Bronx — gin, vermouth, orange juice — but they could just as well have chosen Powell’s vodka martinis from the original “My Man Godfrey,” from 1936, nearly three decades before Sean Connery, in “Goldfinger,” electrified filmgoers with the immortal words “shaken, not stirred.”
我們離《瘦子》(The Thin Man)的那個時代以及威廉·鮑威爾(William Powell)大清早喝的那些雞尾酒很遙遠。布朗克斯雞尾酒(Bronx)、馬提尼、曼哈頓雞尾酒——這些永恆的經典一出現，接下來的一幕必然是第二天早上頭上放着冰袋的場景。弗朗西斯和馬什把布朗克斯雞尾酒（它是用杜松子酒、苦艾酒[vermouth]和橙汁調製的）奉爲神祗，但他們也可以選擇1936年原版《我的高德弗裏》(My Man Godfrey)中鮑威爾的伏特加馬提尼。近30年之後，肖恩·康納利(Sean Connery)在《007之金手指》(Goldfinger)中用這款雞尾酒還有那句不朽的臺詞“搖晃，不要攪動”傾倒了無數影迷。
Hollywood presented the authors with a surplus of material. They might have included Cary Grant’s Gibson in “North by Northwest” (they opt for Bette Davis in “All About Eve”), the Buck’s Fizz in “Top Hat,” the Brandy Flip in “Grand Hotel,” the Black Russian in “Ninotchka.” The list is long, although, oddly enough, there is no evidence of a Manhattan cocktail in the lost 1928 film “Manhattan Cocktail.”
好萊塢給這兩位作者提供了數不清的素材。他們還可以加入《西北偏北》(North by Northwest)中加里·格蘭特(Cary Grant)的吉布森雞尾酒（Gibson，而他們選擇的是《彗星美人》[All About Eve]中的貝特·戴維斯[Bette Davis]），《禮帽》(Top Hat)中的霸克費茲雞尾酒(Buck’s Fizz)，《大飯店》(Grand Hotel)中的白蘭地霏麗蒲雞尾酒(Brandy Flip)，以及《妮諾契卡》(Ninotchka)中的黑色俄羅斯雞尾酒(Black Russian)。這個單子很長，不過，奇怪的是，在令人迷惑的1928年影片《曼哈頓雞尾酒》(Manhattan Cocktail)中，我們沒有看到曼哈頓雞尾酒的影子。
There are a few fantasy cocktails, too, like the sinisterly childish Moloko Plus from “A Clockwork Orange.” Ingredients have been translated into the world of the possible. The Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster in “The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy” calls for, among other things, “Fallian marsh gas” and “the tooth of an Algolian Suntiger.” In that 2005 film, Sam Rockwell, using all three of his arms, serves it on what looks like a shallow martini glass and lets out a short scream after tossing one down. Hardly surprising, since the effect, the narrator intones, “is like having your brains smashed out by a slice of lemon wrapped around a large gold brick.”
電影中還出現過一些虛構的雞尾酒，比如《發條橙》(A Clockwork Orange)中邪惡而孩子氣的摩洛克+雞尾酒(Moloko Plus)，它的成分已經流傳到了現實世界裏。《銀河系漫遊指南》(The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy)中的泛銀河漱口衝擊波雞尾酒(Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster)需要的配料包括“Fallian甲烷”和“奧古林太陽虎(Algolian Suntiger)之牙”。在2005年的這部影片中，山姆·羅克韋爾(Sam Rockwell)用他的三個手臂奉上這杯雞尾酒，它盛放在一個貌似淺馬提尼杯的容器裏，倒出來後發出一聲短促的尖叫聲。不出意料，因爲這種效果，講解員說道：“就像你的腦袋被一塊裏面裹着金磚的檸檬砸碎了”。
One fictional drink is sorely missed, even if it is undrinkable. In “The Nutty Professor,” the title character’s alter ego, Buddy Love, played by Jerry Lewis, steps up to the bar and orders an Alaskan Polar Bear Heater. Here’s how it’s made, Buddy explains to the puzzled bartender: “Two shots of vodka, a little rum, some bitters and a smidgen of vinegar … a shot of vermouth, a shot of gin, a little brandy, lemon peel, orange peel, cherry, some more Scotch. Now mix it nice, then pour it into a tall glass.”
還有一款虛構的雞尾酒十分令人懷念，雖然它是不能喝的。在《肥佬教授》(The Nutty Professor)中，傑裏·劉易斯(Jerry Lewis)飾演的主人公的分身Buddy Love走到吧檯，點了一杯阿拉斯加北極熊雞尾酒(Alaskan Polar Bear Heater)。Buddy是這樣對困惑的酒保解釋它的調製方法的：“兩注伏特加，一點朗姆酒，一些苦味酒，一點醋……一注苦艾酒，一注杜松子酒，一點白蘭地，檸檬皮，橘子皮，櫻桃，再來點蘇格蘭威士忌。然後把混合均勻，倒入高玻璃杯中。”
After listening impassively, the bartender asks, “You going to drink this here, or are you going to take it home and rub it on your chest?”
那位酒吧面無表情地聽完之後問道：“你是要在這兒喝，還是拿回家往胸上擦？”
