關於可持續時尚最常見的9個誤解(下)大綱

MYTH: Brands that proMote sustainability are sustainable

誤解五：打着可持續旗號的品牌就是可持續的

TRUTH: "Sustainability" and other greenwashing buzzwords can be misused to attract consumers eager to reduce their environmental impact on the planet. Fashion search engine Lyst reported in 2019 that it saw a 75% increase in sustainable-related search terms compared with the previous year. "Objective criteria for rating sustainable fashion are missing," McKinsey's Saskia Hedrich told CNN.

事實：“可持續”和其他“漂綠”的流行詞可能被誤用於吸引那些迫切想減少對地球環境影響的顧客。時尚搜索引擎Lyst去年報告稱，2019年可持續相關的搜索詞條相比前一年增加了75%。麥肯錫諮詢公司的薩斯基亞·海德里希告訴美國有線電視新聞網說：“可持續時尚的客觀評價標準缺失了。”

MYTH: Most clothes can be recycled

誤解六：大多數衣服都可以被回收

TRUTH: Clothing can be difficult to recycle, in part because of how it's made. For one, many fabrics are made from blends (of cotton and polyester, for instance), which must be separated if the material is to be turned into a new garment. In the US, less than 14% of clothing and shoes thrown away end up being recycled. But "recycling" is also a broad term that can be broken down into "downcycling" and "upcycling," and the difference matters. Downcycled garments often wind up as fibers used for home insulation or carpets. In Europe, less than 1% of collected clothing is actually recycled into new garments, according to Circle Economy.

事實：衣服回收起來可能會很難，一部分是因爲衣服的製作方法。首先，許多面料都是棉滌或其他材質混紡，如果要用這些面料重新做成新衣就必須把各種材質分開。在美國，被扔掉的衣服鞋子最後只有不到14%被回收。但是“回收”從廣義上可以被分爲“下游循環”和“上游循環”，而兩者的區別很重要。下游循環的衣服通常會成爲用於家庭隔熱材料或地毯的纖維。循環經濟組織稱，在歐洲，不到1%的收集到的衣服真的被回收並製成新衣服。

MYTH: It's not worth it to repair cheap clothes.

誤解七：修補便宜衣服不值當

TRUTH: Mending a fast fashion item may mean spending what you paid for it, but keeping the same clothes in rotation is the best thing you can do to reduce your carbon footprint. You can also learn how to carry out small repairs at home to keep costs down, including replacing buttons, fixing broken zippers, resewing loose seams and hemming pants.

事實：修補一件快時尚衣服也許意味着修補花的錢和買衣服花的錢一樣多，但是循環使用同一件衣服是減少碳足跡的最佳方法。你也可以學習如何在家小修小補以節省成本，包括換鈕釦、修拉鍊、縫合開線處和給褲子卷邊。

MYTH: Your online returns are resold to other customers

誤解八：你網購退回的衣服又被賣給其他顧客

TRUTH: Your returns may end up incinerated or in landfills. It's often cheaper for companies to dispose of returns than to inspect and repackage them, and labels may be unwilling to donate the items for fear of cheapening their brand or damaging their exclusivity. A CBC report in 2019 highlighted this practice, pointing out that the volume of online returns has also increased by 95% over the past five years.

事實：你退回的衣服可能最後被焚燒或扔進了垃圾填埋場。公司檢查和重新包裝退回的衣服所花的費用通常比直接處理掉更高。品牌商也可能因擔心拉低品牌價值或破壞獨特性而不願捐掉退回的衣服。加拿大廣播公司2019年的一份報告凸顯了這種行爲，並指出網購退貨量在過去五年增加了95%。

MYTH: Your clothes are from the country listed on the tag

誤解九：你的衣服來自標籤上印的生產國

TRUTH: Your clothes may be assembled in that country, but the tag can't reveal the complex chain of labor that went into making them. "Your label won't tell you where in the world the cotton was farmed, where the fiber was spun into a yarn, where the yarn was woven into a fabric (or) where it was dyed and printed," states Fashion Revolution's report, "How to Be a Fashion Revolutionary." "It won't tell you where the thread, dyes, zips, buttons, beading or other features came from." To encourage labels to be transparent about their supply chains, Fashion Revolution has been promoting the hashtag #whomademyclothes?, asking users to tag brands in selfies with clothing tags visible.

事實：你的衣服可能在該國進行縫合，但標籤卻無法透露參與制作衣服的複雜勞動鏈。時尚革命組織的報告《如何進行時尚革命》中寫道：“你的衣服標籤不會告訴你原料所用棉花是在世界的哪個地方種植的，纖維是在哪裏被紡成紗線的，紗線是在哪裏織成面料的，以及面料是在哪裏染色或印花的。它不會告訴你紗線、染料、拉鍊、鈕釦、珠飾或其他裝飾物來自哪裏。”爲了鼓勵在標籤上讓供應鏈透明化，時尚革命組織一直在宣傳#誰做了我的衣服？這一話題標籤，請用戶在自拍上曬出衣服標籤並標註出衣服品牌。