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如何判斷一家海鮮餐廳是否靠譜?

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Some seafood restaurants don't serve fresh fish. They take a product that's Already been frozen and processed, and then they serve it to you and charge you an exorbitant amount. You deserve to see food that's fresh and delicious! But you can avoid these places. We spoke to Jonathan Gill (!!), executive chef at Portland, Oregon's RingSide Fish House, to find out what the red flags are in a seafood restaurant.
有些海鮮店不提供新鮮的魚。他們的往往都是那冷凍處理過的魚作爲食品原料,將做好的魚提供給顧客,然後收取價格不菲的餐費。作爲顧客,你有權知道自己購買的原料魚應該是新鮮美味的。但是你不會被允許進入(他們加工食品)的場所。讓我們請到Joantha Gill,俄勒岡的Ringside Fish House 的主廚,該餐廳位於波特蘭來幫助我們,如果在海鮮店發現下列情形之一,那麼就需要引起警覺。

Editor's Note: These are rules for a seafood restaurant, not one that serves sushi. Sushi is required to be flash-frozen. Gill is referring to fresh fish being cooked in a seafood restaurant.
編者按:這些建議只適用於海鮮店,不包括壽司店。壽司所使用的海鮮都是速凍的。Gill所給出的參考,適用於活魚現做的海鮮店。

如何判斷一家海鮮餐廳是否靠譜?

1. All the fish is served fried
所有的魚都是炸的

"If I went to a seafood restaurant and all the fish was fried, then you know it probably came in frozen, and it might even come in like that. Or if they just serve grilled salmon or mahi-mahi, and everything else is breaded and fried, then they're not serving up fresh fish."
“如果你去一家海鮮店用餐,發現他們所提供魚都是炸的,那你可能就要考慮這些都是從冰櫃裏面出來的,甚至買來就是冰的(死的)魚。或者這家店只提供烤三文魚或者海豚魚,其餘的要不是煎的要不就是炸的,那就可以判斷他們店裏沒有活魚。”

2. The restaurant admits it doesn't get in fresh fish every day
餐館承認不會每天進活魚

"A good, busy restaurant is going to have fish come in every day, and it's not going to be frozen. There's no need for it, and most restaurants that specialize in seafood should be flexible enough to serve alternatives if a certain fish becomes unavailable. You're going to want to eat fish fresh, not frozen. If it's frozen, it's either out of season, shipped in from far away, or it's a processing-plant product."

“一家生意興隆、口碑良好的海鮮店每天都會進魚,而且不需要冷凍,因爲不需要。大多數餐館,特別是海鮮店,應對不同顧客的要求,如果某一種魚沒有辦法吃到鮮活的,那採取靈活的手段(存放在冰箱)。人們都想吃活魚而不是冷凍過的魚。如果魚是冷凍過的,除非是過了吃某種魚的季節,要不來自很遠地方,不然就是處理過的冷凍魚。”

3. The menu lists the cost of the fish as "Market Price"
菜單上標出“市場價格”

"You'll usually see 'Market Price' on menus in chain restaurants, or places that do a lot of touristy business. The seafood market doesn't go up and down in wild swings. They should know what the price is, and they should be able to put it on the menu. Usually restaurants put 'Market Price' on the menu because they want to give the illusion the fish is fresh. As if they're picking it up at the market every day, which is probably not the case. They're not going up to a boat in the docks, handing over cash, and asking the fisherman, 'What's it cost today?'"Of course, the exception is if you see 'Market Price' on one of those little shacks on the pier!"
“你通常都會在連鎖餐館的菜單上標有市場價格,或者是旅遊點的餐館裏。但是海鮮的市場價格不會忽高忽低得離譜。餐館經營者們應該知道價格,也應該標在菜單上。但是通常參觀在菜單上標的市場價格,往往是爲了給顧客造成“我們餐館提供的魚是新鮮的”假象。除非他們每天都去市場上收集價格,不然他們的動機就不純。因爲他們自然不可能跑到碼頭上,給漁民們錢,然後問:“今天魚的成本是多少?”“當然有一種例外的情況,就是你在碼頭上的小屋中看到的‘市場價格’。”

4. If the fish on the menu isn't caught sustainably
菜單上面的魚不是符合“可持續性海鮮項目”

"Seafood Watch is a great resource, and a great app. Users can recommend restaurants that have a sustainable seafood program. And restaurants can petition to get on the app by sending them menus. Granted, it's not always the most definitive list. I've worked at restaurants that have been on and not on the list, and both places sourced as sustainably as possible."
“Seafood Watch”上面有着豐富的資源,也是一款好用的應用程序。食客們可以推薦參加“可持續性海鮮項目”的餐館。餐館也可以通過發送自己的菜單來加入這個程序。在這個程序上面的餐廳名單不是固定不變的。我曾經工作過的餐廳,在推薦餐廳的名單上,時有時無,而這些餐廳都能儘可能的保證自己所進的食材符合可持續性的規定。

5. The menu doesn't say if the fish is wild
菜單上沒有說這個魚是不是野生的

"If the menu says it's salmon, but doesn't tell you if it's wild or farmed, that's a red flag. Nobody wants to put farmed seafood on the menu, and they certainly won't highlight it. If it's wild, they're going to tell you."
如果菜單上只說這個是三文魚,但是並沒有告知是野生的還是養殖的,那就需要引起重視。沒有餐廳把“養殖的”標在海鮮菜單上,不標明的原因就是他就是賣(養殖的海鮮)而不想讓食客注意。如果餐廳賣的是野生的魚,那他們就會(大大方方)地告訴你。

6. The fish is served without skin
上的魚沒有魚皮

"I like to see restaurants serve fish skin-on -- you can look at it and tell what it is (and what it isn't!) when you're eating it. When you're getting a pan-roasted piece of fish, you want to see the skin on. There are some exceptions with fish where you don't eat the skin, like certain flatfish. But if someone tries to sell you striped bass or black bass and it comes out and has no skin, that's a red flag."Any restaurant bringing in beautiful, fresh, whole fish (or even a filleted fish the restaurant's fishmonger takes care of) would want the skin on. Otherwise it's coming in processed. As chefs, we'd rather get in whole fish to have better control over its shelf life. If it comes in filleted, well, when was it filleted? How was it treated? You can check whole fish before you accept the delivery of it, and its shelf life will be a lot longer."
“我覺得餐館的魚要有魚皮,看着才安心。這樣在你吃魚的時候,你可以通過魚皮來判斷是哪種魚(或者不是哪種魚)。除非有的魚你不想吃魚皮,比如某種比目魚。如果有餐廳在上條紋鱸魚或者是黑鱸魚的時候,沒有魚皮,那就是可能是一個陷阱信號。任何餐館都會想買入外觀周正、活力新鮮、沒有殘缺、魚皮尚在的魚。(或者是魚販子處理得當的魚片)。不然就是加工過的魚。作爲一個主廚,我們更喜歡整條魚,因爲可以保鮮的時間可以更長。如果是魚片,我們就要知道,它們是什麼時候切片?做了什麼處理?在你接受整條魚之前要確保你把魚全面地檢查一遍,這樣你就能讓它的保質期很久些。”

7. The seafood restaurant only has tuna, salmon, cod, or sea bass
海鮮餐廳裏面只有金槍魚,三文魚,鱈魚,和海鱸魚

"You know that a seafood restaurant knows what they're doing if they have fresh-shucked oysters. Anything that comes in live and has to be dealt with, processed, and served up in a short time frame means you're dealing with a higher-caliber restaurant. If you see steamed clams, mussels, or shellfish dishes, it tells me the restaurant's doing volume and they're treating their seafood great. If you see sea urchin, or other seafood you might not be totally familiar with that strays from the four major fish (tuna, salmon, cod, or sea bass) -- you know it's a good spot. Shrimp will also be frozen nine times out of 10."
“如果一家餐廳裏面有新鮮剝殼的牡蠣,那你就知道這個餐館經營的是什麼。任何食材從進口到處理、烹飪加工,到上菜整個一系列過程很快,那就說明這是一家高水準的餐廳,如果一家餐廳提供蒸的蛤、貽貝或貝類,而且數量很多那麼說明這家餐廳對於海鮮的處理非常得當。如果在一家餐廳,你看見海膽,或者是其他除(金槍魚,三文魚,鱈魚,和海鱸魚)的不是非常熟悉的海鮮,那就是一家好的海鮮店。因爲蝦十有八九都是冷凍的。”

8. The server can't tell you where the fish is from
服務員說不出魚是哪裏產的

"Talk to your server and ask them where the fish is from. The better places will be able to tell you. If the waitstaff doesn't know off-hand, it's not a black mark against them, but they should be able to get you the answer pretty quick, and tell you which state it landed in. If they say, 'It's from the Pacific' -- well, yeah, duh. I'm sure it is. If they can't tell you where it's from, they probably don't get in whole, fresh fish. It's probably portion-cut and frozen."
“和服務員溝通,問他魚是從哪裏來的。如果是個好地方,那麼肯定會告訴你,如果服務員當即就說不知道的話,這並非有意刁難,但是他們應該那能很快回答你的問題。如果他們說:“來自太平洋”——嗯,是的,我肯定它是的。如果他們說不出來,那上的魚可能就不是新鮮的整條魚,可能是冰凍過的一塊魚。”

9. Oysters are not served properly
上的牡蠣不新鮮

"If they're not serving oysters fresh-shucked on the half shell, and they won't do it for you that way, then it's probably not the best seafood restaurant to be in. If I went to a place that only had oysters Rockefeller, I'd put them in the same category as I would a chain restaurant. I'd be a little suspicious. It probably came in frozen -- you can buy oysters pasteurized and pre-shucked on the half shell. Instead, you'd want the restaurant serving oysters from a place closest to you geographically. I'd look for something that's as local as it can be."
“如果他們上的牡蠣不是附着在一半的殼上(說明不新鮮),如果你提出來,但是他們也不同意這麼做,那麼這家海鮮店恐怕不是那麼好。如果我去一家店只提供洛克菲勒牡蠣,那我就會把它標籤成連鎖餐廳,同時我也會感到有點懷疑,這些牡蠣可能是冷凍的,只有保質期內的牡蠣,是巴氏殺菌過,而且能夠附着在一半的殼上。同時,你要的牡蠣最好就產自附近,而我也儘可能會選擇當地產的,(這樣就能保證牡蠣的新鮮)。”

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