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北京烤鴨在紐約火了!600多元一隻烤鴨,預定排到明年二月!

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12月11日,北京大董烤鴨的首家海外分店在紐約曼哈頓開張迎客。

脆皮、甜麪醬、蔥絲、黃瓜……西餐Style的烤鴨,誘人中透着一點高冷……

這家餐廳的裝飾結合了西餐廳的模式,但是也保留了傳統的中式風格……

The Manhattan branch has 440 seats, including about 200 on outdoor terraces, sprawled over 17,500 square feet on the building's second and third floors.
曼哈頓分店有440個座位,其中包括200個室外露臺座位,二三層佔地1.75萬平方英尺(約合1625.8平方米)。

北京烤鴨在紐約火了!600多元一隻烤鴨,預定排到明年二月!

和國內不少烤鴨店一樣,店裏還是可以看到片烤鴨的師傅……

看餐廳頗爲不錯的樣子,但做什麼菜纔是關鍵!我們來看看大董紐約店的菜單。

菜品總共有80多樣,其中招牌菜烤鴨,一套“酥不膩”烤鴨98美元(約合人民幣648元),半隻烤鴨58美元(約合人民幣383元),還可以搭配黑魚子!

大董“酥不膩”烤鴨

DaDong "SuBuNi" Roast Duck

——$98 Whole/ $58 Half

Served with Sugar, Pancakes, Crispy Sesame Buns and Special Sauces

價格不菲,但並沒有阻擋紐約人民的熱情。

據《紐約時報》11月28日報道,預定剛開啓了2個小時,就已經排到明年二月份了……

A few weeks ago, within the first two hours of becoming available, 2,500 reservations were booked through February, overloading the phone lines.
幾個星期之前,預定開始的兩個小時,餐廳就收到2500張訂單,定位排到了明年2月,訂餐電話都擠爆了。

這麼受歡迎,可能是因爲真的很好吃。據彭博生活追求欄目(Bloomberg Pursuits)介紹,大董烤鴨香酥可口、滑而不膩。


DaDong's version of the dish — a combination of lacquered skin and succulent meat, usually wrapped in a pancake with scallions and hoisin sauce — is magnificently crispy but meatier than much of the competition.
大董烤鴨表皮光滑油亮、肉質鮮嫩多汁,配以蔥絲和烤鴨醬裹在春餅裏,口感十分酥脆,比其他品牌的烤鴨更有肉質感。

scallions ['skæljən]:蔥

hoisin:用大豆、糖、醋和大蒜製成的棕紅色甜辣醬

該報道還介紹了具體吃法,一份烤鴨可以有四種搭配吃法。(咽口水jpg.)

Traditional-style comes with pancake, hoisin, and three to four pieces of duck meat (and skin), as well as watermelon radishes, cucumber, and scallion slices.
傳統吃法是捲餅內塗甜麪醬,包上3-4片鴨肉片(或鴨皮),並搭配水蘿蔔條、黃瓜和細蔥絲。

There's also a sesame-puff bun, a flaky pastry shell that's meant to be stuffed with the duck meat, a pungent garlic paste, and vegetable garnishes.
還有一種吃法是用空心芝麻包,把鴨肉塞進這種薄皮面點殼內,並塞入大蒜辣醬和蔬菜配料。

flaky:薄片的

A further option is to dip the duck in a bowl of sugar and eat it plain.
還有一種方法是可以把直接用烤鴨蘸糖吃。

Finally, there's the Kaluga caviar accompaniment, which costs an additional $42 and is meant to be spooned between the skin and the meat.
最後也可以配卡露伽黑魚子,這份佐料需另花42美元(約合人民幣278元),可用勺子均勻塗在鴨肉和鴨皮之間。

caviar:魚子醬

其實,在大董烤鴨打入紐約之前,北京烤鴨早已享譽海外。

作爲最有名的北京菜,烤鴨以色澤紅豔、肉質細嫩、味道醇厚、肥而不膩的特色引誘着國內外無數吃貨。

外國人對烤鴨的愛從他們的文字描述中就能感受到:

Imagine the best Peking Duck you’ve ever had. That crispy, amber-toned skin. That juicy, melt-in-your-mouth breast meat. Those deeply nuanced, deeply aromatic flavors, expertly engineered to send your pleasure sensors spinning.
想象一下你吃過的最美味的北京烤鴨。那酥脆的、泛着琥珀色油光的鴨皮;那多汁的、入口即化的鴨胸肉;那細膩醇厚、回味無窮的肉香,一切都恰到好處,讓你的味蕾爆發。

孤獨星球》(Lonely Planet)還介紹過烤鴨的前世今生:

Peking duck was first mentioned in royal cookbooks during the Yuan dynasty (13th century), but didn’t come to the fore until the early 1900s, when former imperial cooks began opening roast duck restaurants outside the palace walls.
北京烤鴨這道菜早在元朝(13世紀)就已經出現在宮廷食譜中,但直到20世紀初期,出了宮的御廚把烤鴨店開到了皇牆外邊,北京烤鴨才變得廣爲人知起來。

也講解了烤鴨的製作過程:

To prepare the duck, chefs first inflate the bird by blowing air between the skin and body. They then prick the skin and pour boiling water over the duck. Some chefs add malt sugar to the skin so that it glows golden brown once roasted.
做這道菜之前,廚師要先往鴨子皮下與身體之間充氣。之後把皮刺破,開水燙皮。有的廚師會往鴨子身上澆糖水,這樣烤熟之後整個烤鴨都呈現出棗紅色澤。

一些文章甚至還研究過烤鴨的各種派系:

Closed oven style 燜爐烤鴨

Peking Duck is originally roasted in a closed oven, and Bianyifang is the restaurant who keeps this tradition. The closed oven is built of brick and is preheated by burning Gaoliang sorghum straw at the base. The duck is placed in the oven immediately after the fire burns out, allowing the meat to be slowly cooked through the convection of heat within the oven. Controlling the fuel and the temperature is the main skill.
烤鴨最早是燜爐烤制的,便宜坊一直保持這一傳統。燜爐用磚砌成,先用秫秸燒熱,待無明火之後,立刻將鴨子掛進爐內,由爐內熱氣燜烤而成。掌爐人必須掌好爐內的炭火和溫度。

In closed oven style, duck meat is combined well with the fat under the skin, and therefore is juicy and tender.
這種方法烤出來的鴨肉與皮下肥油完美融合,肉質細嫩鮮美。

Open oven style 掛爐烤鴨

The open oven was developed in the imperial kitchens during the Qing Dynasty, and adopted by the Quanjude restaurant chain. It is designed to roast up to 20 ducks at the same time with an open fire fueled by hardwood from peach or pear trees.
掛爐烤鴨發明於清朝御膳房,全聚德是這一派系的傳承人。這種爐口無門,可以同時烤20只鴨子,下面用梨、桃木等果木火烤。

The ducks are hung on hooks above the fire and roasted at a temperature of 270 °C for 30–40 minutes. In open oven style, the fat is usually melted during the cooking process, so the skin is crispy, and can be eaten separately as a snack.
鴨子由鐵鉤掛在爐火上,在270攝氏度的高溫下烤30-40分鐘。掛爐烤鴨的肥肉在烤制過程中都已融化,因此鴨皮酥脆可口,可單做一道小食食用。

總之,烤鴨做起來非常複雜,絕對不是一道家常菜,但是外國人卻寫了不少文章,教大家如何自制烤鴨……


美食網站ChefSteps:終極指南!自制酥脆、琥珀光澤的北京烤鴨(預計用時:製作4小時,共需4-6天)


《衛報》:製作一道美味的外酥裏嫩、肉香四溢的北京烤鴨快不了,但慢工出細活。你是烤鴨鐵桿粉嗎,敢不敢來試一試?

但是自己做的烤鴨哪有大北京的地道,於是各國遊客來北京必嘗烤鴨。

網上有各種熱情洋溢的攻略指南帖:


不僅遊客爲烤鴨瘋狂,許多外國政要也都是北京烤鴨的粉絲,比如美國前國務卿基辛格(Henry Kissinger)。

1971年7月,基辛格作爲美國總統尼克松的特使來到北京,與周恩來總理舉行祕密會談。周總理請他吃北京烤鴨,一度緊張的會談氣氛在基辛格吃過這道人間美味後立刻緩和。


據報道,基辛格曾這樣表達他對烤鴨的熱愛:

“After a dinner of Peking duck, I'll agree to anything.”
“只要給我來一份北京烤鴨,我願意簽署任何文件。”

當然,北京美食絕不止烤鴨一種,下面是《孤獨星球》和一些外媒盤點的北京菜,一起來看看有沒有你愛吃的……

炸醬麪 Zhajiang noodles


Firm, drained, hand-pulled wheat noodles are topped with minced-pork in a smoky yellow-soybean paste reduction in this classic Beijing noodle dish.
炸醬麪這道經典老北京菜是濾過湯的乾硬小麥拉麪,上面澆上肉沫和黃豆製成的煙燻黃醬。

To balance out the addictive saltiness of the chunky sauce, fresh vegetables are laid to the side - julienned cucumber, crunchy radish and, in modern Beijing, juicy bean sprouts or edamame (fresh soybeans).
爲了均衡濃厚醬汁帶來的鹹味,邊上還得配上新鮮蔬菜——切成絲兒的黃瓜,嚼起來嘎吱發脆的蘿蔔,今天,北京人還會加點兒多汁的豆芽或者毛豆(沒有熟透的黃豆)。

chunky:厚實的

julienned:切絲的

radish:蘿蔔

bean sprout:豆芽

edamame:毛豆

You lovingly turn the toppings through the noodles to reach the flavour-to-noodle ratio of your liking and quietly slurp away.
滿心歡喜地攪拌麪條,使麪條和醬味兒達到你喜歡的混合程度,然後再悄悄地,哧溜哧溜一碗麪下了肚。

豆汁兒 Mung-bean milk


Love or hate it. One of Beijing’s most famous and unique flavours is a grey-green drink that locals have proudly adored since the Liao dynasty (907-1125).
不論你喜不喜歡,這碗灰綠色的豆汁都是北京最爲出名和最獨特的美食之一。北京本地人都十分自豪,從遼代(907-1125)起這道菜很受喜愛。

Sometimes translated as ‘soymilk’, Beijing’s dòuzhī is actually made from mung beans, has a mild sourness to it and isn’t sweet like soymilk.
有些人翻譯爲”soymilk“(黃豆豆漿),但實際上北京的豆汁是用綠豆做的,有一絲酸味,不像豆奶那麼甜。

You’ll find dòuzhī throughout the city, from street stalls to restaurants, and it warrants a taste to find out if you are a dòuzhī lover or hater.
北京城裏,從街邊小攤兒到餐廳館子裏,處處都有賣豆汁兒的。如果要知道你是豆汁兒粉還是豆汁兒黑,你就有必要嘗一口。

To help mung-bean milk go down, try it with the usual accompaniment of strips of spicy pickles. Beijingers swear by the health benefits of protein- and fiber-rich dòuzhī and claim that it cools you down on a stifling Beijing summer’s day and warms you up in winter.
配着吃的“下豆汁兒菜”一般有辣鹹菜條兒。北京人深信豆汁兒富含蛋白和纖維,有益健康,聲稱豆汁兒能讓人在北京的酷暑裏感到涼爽,寒冬裏感到溫暖。

pickles:鹹菜

炒肝兒 Stir-fried pork liver


If you like liver, then this sauteed pork-liver in a thick soup will have you licking your lips, literally.
如果你喜歡吃肝子,那麼講真,這碗濃湯中的嫩煎豬肝一定會讓你饞得舔嘴巴。

The traditional way to eat chǎo gānr is by sipping its salty mushroom broth directly from the bowl. You may need the spoon for the chewy lungs and intestines.
炒肝的傳統吃法是直接啜飲碗裏的鹹味兒菌菇肉湯。可能你還需要用勺子才能吃到有嚼頭的豬雜。

intestines:內臟、下水

This Beijing speciality isn’t subtle – it’s sprinkled with raw garlic and is served for breakfast. Yes, breakfast.
這道北京風味不是那種精緻小菜——撒點兒生蒜瓣,就成了一頓早餐。恩沒錯就是早餐。

爆肚 Quick-fried Tripe


Quick-fried Tripe is one of the best examples of old Beijing local snack. Tripe is from the stomachs of a bull or a lamb. It should be washed very clean, and then cut into stripes and put them into a pot of boiling water to cook thoroughly.
爆肚是最典型的老北京小吃之一。“肚子”是牛胃或者羊胃的一部分。要洗得很乾淨,然後切成一條一條的,放在滾水鍋裏煮個透。

By adding cooking oil, sesame sauce, Chinese vinegar, chili oil, bean paste and small pieces of vegetables, the dish is ready to serve.
加入食用油,芝麻醬,醋,潑辣子油,豆瓣醬和幾把蔬菜,這道爆肚兒就能出鍋了。

焦圈 Fried Rings


Fried Ring is a household snack in Beijing. It resembles a yellow bangle. Local Beijingers love jiaoquan and usually have it for breakfast with douzhi.
焦圈是一道家常小吃。外表形似金黃鐲子,北京當地人一般喜歡就着豆汁當早餐吃。

To make good jiaoquan, one must pay attention to what wheat they use. It is said the Zhangjiakou wheat is the best choice as the wheat is red and can make for the crispy taste. Mixing edible alkali into the wheat is also suggested.
要做出好吃的焦圈,必須要注意選用小麥麪粉的過程。據說最好是選張家口小麥,因爲張家口小麥色紅,而且能做出脆脆的口感。也有人建議往麪粉中加入食用鹼。

edible alkali:食用鹼

豌豆黃 Pea Flour Cake

As one part of Beijing culture, pea flour cake is a sort of traditional snack of Beijing, taking in spring under Beijing custom. It is light yellow and tastes sweet and cool, just smelting in your mouth.
作爲北京文化的一部分,豌豆黃是一種典型的傳統春令小吃。色澤微黃,味道清爽微甜,入口即化,回味無窮。

Its making process is as follows: grind up the pea, take off the skins, clean them up, boil until soft, frozen-up, finally cut into pieces. It is said that pea flour cake is favored by Empress Dowager Cixi, hence even more famous.
作法是碾碎豌豆,去皮,洗清,煮軟然後冷凍,最後切成小塊。據說,慈禧太后很愛吃這道小吃,所以聲名遠揚。

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