金門島居民眼中的兩岸關係 Wary islanders see limits to cross strait detente

Hundreds of thousands of Chinese shells pummelled Taiwan’s Kinmen island during the cold war, killing many and terrifying the family of Wu Zeng-dong and others.

冷戰時期，金門島曾遭到數十萬枚來自中國大陸的炮彈的打擊，死傷慘重，許多家庭生活在恐怖之中，吳增棟一家就是其中之一。

Today the 58-year-old turns these spent shells into souvenirs, shaping the metal into high-quality kitchen knives and selling them to the surging number of tourists visiting from China since restrictions were relaxed in 2008.

如今，58歲的吳增棟把這些炮彈的彈片變成了紀念品。他用彈片製成高品質的菜刀，出售給大陸游客。自2008年限制放寬後，入臺旅遊的大陸游客呈現激增。

Mr Wu is one of many residents riding a tourism boom on an island just a few kilometres from the prosperous Chinese city of Xiamen.

金門島離大陸繁華城市廈門僅數公里，吳增棟只是金門島上得益於這股旅遊熱潮的衆多居民之一。

The population of Kinmen has jumped to 130,000, new shops and hotels including a 280-room five-star resort have opened and old army bunkers have been turned into adverts for the famed local sorghum wine.

金門島人口已升至13萬人，島上開了新商鋪和酒店，包括一家擁有280間客房的五星級度假酒店。曾經的軍事碉堡也成了當地知名特產高粱酒的廣告背景。

“We are just one small outlying island so it’s very hard to be self-sufficient,” says Mr Wu. “China’s economy has been doing so well and it can benefit us.”

吳增棟說：“我們只是一座小小的離島，所以很難自給自足。大陸經濟現在發展得很好，讓我們現在也能從中受益。”

Taiwan received a record 9.9m visitors last year, with 40 per cent coming from mainland China.

2014年赴臺遊客人數破了紀錄，達到990萬人次，其中40%來自中國大陸。

But despite a thaw in cross-strait ties since President Ma Ying-jeou came to power in 2008, culminating in last weekend’s first meeting between the leaders of China and Taiwan, the relationship remains complicated.

兩岸關係自2008年馬英九出任臺灣總統後開始解凍，並在最近的兩岸領導人首次會面中達到高潮，但雙方的關係仍然複雜。

Taiwan is independently governed but Beijing still claims it, and only about 20 countries are willing to recognise it for fear of upsetting China.

臺灣是一個自治的島嶼，但北京方面仍宣稱擁有臺灣的主權。由於擔心惹惱北京方面，世界上僅有大約20個國家願意承認臺灣。

The two sides coexist under the so-called 1992 consensus, in which they accept that there is “One China” but with different interpretations of what that means. Mr Ma calls this a “masterpiece of ambiguity”.

海峽兩岸在所謂的“九二共識”下實現了共處。根據九二共識，雙方接受“一箇中國”原則，但對其具體含義各自擁有不同的解釋。馬英九稱九二共識是一個“模糊的傑作”。

On Kinmen island, the contradictions of modern Taiwan are as clear as the views of China on a bright day.

在金門島上，現代臺灣的矛盾之處一目瞭然，正如晴天時一眼就能望見中國大陸一樣。

Most of the Taiwanese military stationed here have left and their extensive tunnels, gun emplacements and weaponry have been transformed into historical sights popular with Chinese visitors armed only with selfie sticks.

臺灣在金門島的駐軍大多已撤去，遺留下大量隧道、炮臺和武器，這些都成了歷史景點，受到大陸游客歡迎，這些遊客登島時唯一的“武器裝備”就是手裏的自拍杆。

But with Beijing threatening to invade if Taiwan declares formal independence, many beaches are still fortified against Chinese landing craft and hilltop observation stations keep an eye on the missiles based just over the border.

但由於北京方面揚言如果臺灣正式宣佈獨立就將動武，這裏的許多海灘仍設有防禦工事，以防大陸的登陸艇，山頂的觀測站也仍在監視着大陸設在沿岸附近的導彈基地。

The influx of Chinese tourists has boosted the economy but, like a growing number of Taiwanese elsewhere, local people remain concerned about becoming too reliant on the mainland.

大陸游客的涌入帶動了金門島的經濟發展，但當地百姓仍擔心變得過於依賴大陸——在臺灣其他地方，也有越來越多的人有這種擔心。

And while many residents are fiercely proud of their Taiwanese identity, they are reluctant to push for full independence for fear of China’s response.

雖然這裏的許多居民都以自己的臺灣人身份而充滿強烈的自豪感，但由於害怕大陸的反應，他們不願推動完全獨立。

“It’s impossible to go for unification with China because our thoughts and political systems are so different,” says Mr Wu. “But I also oppose independence because that could lead to war and we’ve already suffered so much.”

“與大陸走向統一是不可能的，因爲我們的思想、政治制度差別太大，”吳增棟說，“但我也反對獨立，因爲那會導致戰爭，我們已經承受了太多苦難。”

Lin Chu-chia, a deputy minister in Taiwan’s Mainland Affairs Council, which manages relations with Beijing, says that about 80 per cent of Taiwanese people want to stick with the status quo for now. The only consensus, he says, is that “Taiwan’s future should be decided by the 23m Taiwanese people only” in a referendum.

負責與北京方面打交道的臺灣陸委會(Mainland Affairs Council)的副主委林祖嘉(Lin Chu-chia)說，目前約80%的臺灣人民希望維持現狀。他說，唯一的共識是“臺灣的未來應當只由2300萬臺灣人民（通過公投）決定”。

He acknowledges that young people have grown more hostile to China in recent years partly because they fear greater economic ties have benefited businesspeople while disadvantaging the many. But even some of those making a living from Chinese tourists on Kinmen remain wary of their ever more powerful and assertive neighbour.

他承認，近年來，臺灣年輕人已變得更加敵視大陸，部分原因是他們擔心與大陸更緊密的經濟關係只有利於商人而不利於多數臺灣人民。但即使是金門島上一些依靠大陸游客維持生計的臺灣人，也仍對他們日益強大和強硬的鄰居保持警惕。

In June, Liu Xiu-zhen opened a health store at the ferry terminal where passengers arrive from Xiamen, hoping to tap demand from Chinese tourists who do not trust medical products sold at home. Although she makes a living selling expensive baby milk powder, homeopathic treatments and traditional medicines to Chinese visitors, she remains wary of her neighbours.

今年6月，劉秀珍（音譯）在來自廈門的旅客上岸的渡輪碼頭開了一家藥店，希望從那些不信任大陸銷售的醫療產品的大陸游客身上挖掘需求。雖然她依靠向大陸游客銷售昂貴的嬰兒奶粉、順勢療法藥物及中藥爲生，但她仍對自己的鄰居保持警惕。