36小時玩轉克羅地亞的薩格勒布
For years, Zagreb, Croatia’s chief city, was a layover on the way to the country’s island-studded coast. No more. Tourism had shot up more than 20 percent from 2011 to 2013, when Croatia joined the European Union. Accompanying that rise is a raft of modernized and recently built lodgings, including some three dozen hostels — important additions to the town’s once-inadequate accommodation scene. For those who fell in love with Zagreb, population 790,000, before its surge in popularity, fear not. Though the town has rejiggered its offerings with jazzy lounges, bistros and chic clothes-designer ateliers, this Slavic metropolis along the Sava River still retains plenty of cobbled-street charm.
克羅地亞擁有島嶼星羅棋佈的海岸線，多年來，這個國家的首都薩格勒布只是通往海灘的中轉站，如今這裏已經今非昔比。2013年，克羅地亞加入歐盟，旅遊業比2011年增長了20%還多。伴隨這一增長而來的是大量新建的現代化住宿場所，其中包括三十多個旅館，對於這個住宿一度供不應求的城市來說堪稱重要的變化。薩格勒布擁有79萬人口，那些早在這裏尚未被世人所知時就已愛上它的遊客也無需擔心：儘管重修了爵士風情的酒吧、餐館，以及時髦的時裝設計師工作室，這座薩瓦河畔的斯拉夫都市依然擁有鋪着鵝卵石的街道，不失其古老優雅的魅力。
1. Begin at the Beginning | 3 p.m
1. 一切從頭開始 | 下午3點
Pay homage to Zagreb’s origins, Kaptol, which was settled as a bishopric in 1094. Today, Kaptol comprises the eastern half of Upper Town, anchored by the city’s most famous building: the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, restored after an 1880 earthquake, and the site of the tomb of the beatified Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac. Before entering, soak in its neo-Gothic grandeur from a table at Amélie, which sits in the shadow of the church’s twin 344-foot spires. The French-cafe mood — Django Reinhardt-esque melodies are piped in over checkerboard floors and weathered wood tables — is complemented by a glass case filled with house-made delicacies. The Torta Amélie is layered with custard, almonds and wild berries; 18 kunas or $2.65, at 6.8 kunas to the dollar.
你可以到薩格勒布的起源地卡普托爾(Kaptol)去做個致意，1094年，這裏正式成爲一處主教轄區。如今的卡普托爾包括上城東側，這座城市最著名的建築、1880年地震後重修的聖母昇天大教堂(Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary)就在這裏，有福的樞機主教阿羅傑茲·斯坦皮納茨(Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac)的陵墓也在這裏。教堂的雙塔有344英尺高， “愛美麗”咖啡館就坐落在這道長長的陰影之下，進入教堂之前，不妨先來這裏品位一下新歌特式的美景。法式咖啡館的情調、 強戈·萊恩哈特(Django Reinhardt)式的旋律迴盪在棋盤格地板和古色古香的木質桌子之間，玻璃櫥中裝滿家庭風味的美味佳餚。愛美麗蛋糕(The Torta Amélie)裏層疊着蛋奶糊、巴旦木和野漿果；一份售價18庫納（按6.8庫納兌換一美元，合2.65美元）。
2. Wine and Dine | 5 p.m.
2. 美食與美酒 | 下午5點
About nine out of 10 Croats classify themselves as Catholics. Arguably a larger portion consider themselves wine connoisseurs, given the number of top-flight vintages produced in this fertile country. Vinoteka Bornstein, the first private wine shop that opened in the former Yugoslavia, has a 19th-century labyrinthine cellar and a new wine bar offering international labels and vintages from every Croatian region. The Coronica malvasia, a white from the Istrian Peninsula, is a stellar choice (95 kunas). Then walk west to the other side of Upper Town known as Gradec, once the merchant yin to Kaptol’s religious yang. Duck into Trilogija, a tiny spot tucked into a passageway. This local favorite offers an eclectic menu, with ingredients bought daily at Zagreb’s green market. Try the grilled pork tenderloin with oven-baked potatoes, cauliflower and a truffle cream (90 kunas).
10個克羅地亞人中有九個說自己是天主教徒。很可能有更多人會說自己是品評美酒的行家，因爲這片肥沃的土地上生長着衆多最優質的葡萄。維諾特卡·伯恩斯坦(Vinoteka Bornstein)是前南斯拉夫第一傢俬人紅酒店，擁有迷宮般的19世紀地下酒窖，以及一個新的吧檯，提供各國名酒，以及產自克羅地亞各地的美酒。克羅尼卡瑪爾維薩(Coronica malvasia)是一種白葡萄酒，產自伊斯的利亞半島，在店裏頗爲搶手（95庫納）。然後向西步行，來到上城的另一側，這裏是名叫格拉代茨(Gradec)的商業區，是充滿宗教氛圍的卡普托爾的另一面。你可以躲進步行道一側小小的特里洛基亞(Trilogija)飯館，這裏頗受本地人喜愛，食譜較爲折中，食材每日新鮮採購，來自薩格勒布本地菜市。不妨嚐嚐這裏的烤豬肉裏脊配烤土豆、花椰菜和松露醬（90庫納）。
3. Love Lost | 8 p.m.
3. 失落的愛 | 晚上8點
Walk across Gradec, past St. Mark’s Church, with its patterned tile roof depicting the Croatian and Zagreb coats of arms, to one of the town’s quirkiest attractions: the Museum of Broken Relationships. The brainchild of Olinka Vistica and Drazen Grubisic, a former couple, is the product of a simple question: “What to do with all those tokens of love, material and immaterial, that you collected during your relationship?” The result was a temporary exhibit in Zagreb, in 2006, with items like 100 discarded roses, airsickness bags, and a head-massaging “tingler” collected from friends. The concept has been on the road since, visiting 33 cities in 21 countries, collecting keepsakes along the way. In 2010, the two established the museum’s bricks-and-mortar home in the Croatian capital with an international trove that’s often cringe-inducing — fur-lined handcuffs, a toaster stolen out of spite, and an ax used to destroy a former lover’s furniture. The overall effect is interesting, to say the least (25 kunas).
走過格拉代茨，途經聖馬可教堂，它的彩瓦屋頂上描繪着克羅地亞與薩格勒布的盾形紋章，然後你就來到這個城市最詭異的景點：失戀博物館。這是分手情侶奧琳卡·維斯迪卡(Olinka Vistica)與德拉岑·格魯比西茨(Drazen Grubisic)的點子，來自一個非常簡單的問題：“分手之後，你要怎麼處理熱戀期間有形或無形的信物？”於是，2006年，他們在薩格勒布舉辦了這樣一個臨時展覽，展品都是他們從朋友那裏收集的物品，包括100朵被丟棄的玫瑰、暈機袋、按摩頭部的“刺激物”等等。後來他們還舉辦了巡展，來到21個國家的33個城市，沿途收集紀念品。2010年，兩人在克羅地亞首都建成了實體博物館，裏面收藏了不少來自世界各地的展品，有的還頗令人畏懼——皮毛手銬、爲了泄恨而偷來的烤麪包機、用來砍壞分手戀人傢俱的斧子。不過整體效果還是挺有趣的（門票25庫納）。
4. Where Artists Gather | 10 p.m.
4. 藝術家聚集地 | 晚上10點
Around the corner and a couple of blocks away, Zagreb’s oldest tavern, Pod Starim Krovovima, is situated in a 14th-century building. Opened as a public drinking hole in 1830, this unofficial clubhouse for poets, actors, writers, singers, directors and photographers from the Kingdom of Yugoslavia to the present day is, according to the owner, Domagoj Pocrnic: “a regular pub frequented by famous people.” Under rough-hewed beams, patrons gather for libations at yesteryear prices and meditative evenings that become impromptu dance parties. Half a liter of local Velebitsko beer is 12.50 kunas; a shot of rakija, or Slavic schnapps, costs 8 kunas.
再走幾個街區就可以看到薩格勒布最古老的酒館波德·斯塔利姆·科洛沃維瑪(Pod Starim Krovovima)，它坐落在一棟14世紀的建築裏，自從1830年成爲酒館對公衆開放之後，這裏就成了詩人、演員、作家、歌手、導演與攝影師們非正式的俱樂部，從南斯拉夫王國時代至今一直如此。酒館老闆多瑪格耶·波茨爾尼克(Domagoj Pocrnic)說，“這裏經常有名人光顧”。粗糙質樸的房樑之下，顧客們以去年的便宜價格暢飲美酒，沉靜的夜晚也會瞬間變爲即興的舞蹈派對。半公升本地產維勒比特斯科啤酒賣12.5庫納；一杯“拉齊亞”(rakija)或者斯拉夫杜松子酒賣8庫納。
5. Rituals | 9 a.m.
5. 儀式 | 上午9點
Zagreb is a town of traditions. Every day at noon, the Lotrscak Tower cannon is fired, sending shock waves across town. And each Saturday, Purgers (as people from Zagreb call themselves) don their best threads and head to cafes in the main square, Jelacic, to see and be seen. You won’t want to miss this tradition: Each morning at 7, farmers and produce vendors set up in the town’s open-air market, Dolac, on a bustling quad between Upper and Lower Towns. Surrounded by souvenir kiosks and quick-bite joints, a sea of red umbrellas shelters cheeses, meats, fish, nuts, oils and vegetables spill over tables in the place locals call “the belly of Zagreb.” Have your breakfast here on the fly. Spread local butter atop warm bread and chase it with fresh figs (total cost, about 30 kunas).
薩格勒布是一座傳統之城。每天中午，洛斯卡克塔(Lotrscak Tower)的禮炮都會鳴響，整個城市爲之顫動。每個星期六，薩格勒布的居民們（他們自稱“Purgers”）都會穿上最好的衣服到捷拉斯加(Jelacic)主廣場去，觀看他人，也被他人所觀看。還有一個傳統儀式你肯定不願錯過：每天早上七點，農民和小攤販們會到城市的露天廣場朵拉茨(Dolac)擺攤，它就位於上城和下城一處鬧哄哄的場院裏。四周是一片紅雨傘的海洋，遮蓋着紀念品售貨亭和快餐小吃攤。奶酪、肉食、魚類、堅果、食油和蔬菜擺滿了桌子，所以本地人把這裏叫做“薩格勒布的肚子”。百忙中來這裏享受一頓早餐吧。在熱乎乎的麪包上塗滿本地產的黃油，再搭配新鮮的無花果（合計30庫納）。
6. Local Fashion | 11 a.m.
6. 本地時尚 | 上午11點
Taking mental note of the up-to-the-minute fashions the famously put-together Zagrebians wear, head to steep Radiceva Street, which begins in the northwest corner of Jelacic Square, to assemble your new look. Stop in at Boudoir, a boutique opened by the designers and sisters Morana Saracevic and Martina Cicko-Karapetric. Once a millinery run by their grandmother, the shop offers striking collections, which incorporate materials like lace, silk and satin. Everything is handmade on site. Dresses start around 3,000 kunas. To complete your ensemble, make a left at the top of the street’s incline and pass through Kamenita Vrata, the last medieval “stone gate” remaining from the fortifications that once surrounded Gradec. Just beyond the gate, you’ll find Dora, specializing in dresses and women’s coats. The three-decade-old family business, run by Dora Rubic, displays elegant in-house designs made of silk, cashmere, angora and alpaca. Wraps cost about 2,000 kunas.
要想知道最新的時尚，薩格勒布人最著名的搭配，就到陡峭的拉迪賽瓦街(Radiceva Street)來添置新行頭吧，這條街始於捷拉斯加廣場的西北角。你可以到“閨房”(Boudoir)駐足，這是設計師莫拉娜·薩拉塞維奇(Morana Saracevic)和瑪蒂娜·希茨科-卡拉佩特里奇(Martina Cicko-Karapetric)合開的，過去曾是一家女帽店，由她倆的祖母經營，現在出售精美的時裝，結合了蕾絲和綢緞等質材。一切都是現場手工製作。連衣裙3000庫納起。爲了湊齊一套行頭，你可以往左走，來到這條街陡坡的最高處，穿過最後一扇中世紀的“石門”卡米尼塔·弗拉塔(Kamenita Vrata)，它來自曾經環繞格拉代茨(Gradec)的工事。門那邊是朵拉(Dora)，它專營連衣裙和女式外套，是擁有30年曆史的家庭店鋪，由朵拉·盧比奇(Dora Rubic)經營，展示自省設計的絲綢、羊絨、羊毛和羊駝毛服飾，式樣優雅高貴。披巾約2000庫納。
7. Lunch and Art | 1 p.m.
7. 午飯與藝術 | 下午1點
A U-shaped series of parks, known as the Green Horseshoe, extends from the train station to the main square and forms the skeleton of Lower Town. On avenues surrounding this tree-lined, flowery corridor are cafes, lounges, restaurants and shops. Just off the Horseshoe, take a seat at a table inside Lari & Penati. Opened in 2011, this sidewalk bistro provides a modern — and occasionally American — twist on Croatian fare. The baked spare ribs are served with a tangy barbecue sauce, potato salad and coleslaw (45 kunas) and pair well with a glass of Solum cabernet sauvignon from the country’s Slavonia region (25 kunas). After lunch, hail a taxi to the Museum of Contemporary Art. The $65 million complex instantly made the Croatian capital a center for progressive art when it opened in 2010. The collection of international paintings, film, photography, sculpture and installations fills the 156,000-square-foot facility and shares space with rotating exhibitions. Among the most popular pieces are Carsten Holler’s spiraling, interactive, stainless steel slides at the entrance (30 kunas).
從火車站到主廣場有一串U形的公園，叫做“綠色蹄鐵”(Green Horseshoe)，它們構成了下城的骨架。這裏綠蔭密佈，鮮花盛開，道路兩旁佈滿咖啡屋、酒吧、飯館和商店。距離“綠色蹄鐵”不遠，有一家叫做“拉里與皮納迪”(Lari & Penati)的街邊小酒館，可以進去坐坐。這間酒館於2011年開業，裏面的克羅地亞菜中有一絲現代風味，有時還有點美國化。推薦烤瘦肋排配濃郁的烤肉醬、土豆沙拉和捲心菜沙拉（45庫納），還可以搭配一杯來自這個國家斯拉沃尼亞地區的索倫姆(Solum)赤霞珠紅葡萄酒（25庫納）。午飯後，打輛車去當代藝術館。這棟斥資6500萬美元的藝術館於2010年開放，令克羅地亞的首都成爲前衛藝術的中心。藝術館佔地15.6萬平方英尺，館藏包括世界各地的繪畫、電影、攝影、雕塑和裝置藝術，此外還有臨時展覽。館內最受歡迎的藏品中包括入口處卡斯特·奧萊(Carsten Holler)的不鏽鋼互動螺旋滑梯（門票30庫納）。
8. Dinner and Drama | 6 p.m.
8. 晚餐與戲劇 | 下午6點
Dinner at Bistro Fotic, in a former Croatian photo club, combines nostalgia — walls and shelves are filled with black-and-white images and vintage cameras — and delectable down-home fare. The butter-seared trout comes with cream of spinach and potatoes (50 kunas). For dessert, try the apple or blueberry strudel (20 kunas), and a free plum or apricot digestif. Then walk three blocks west to the Croatian National Theater. The interior of the country’s most prestigious performance space is a swirl of Old World gilded opulence. The neo-Baroque building, opened in 1895 by the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Josef, stages a repertory of international classics as well as modern dramatic works, ballet and opera. This season’s productions include Ibsen’s “A Doll’s House” and Puccini’s “Tosca.”
晚上可以在弗迪茨飯館(Bistro Fotic)飯館用餐，這裏曾是一家克羅地亞攝影俱樂部，牆壁和架子上擺滿黑白照片和老式相機，極具懷舊氣息，還提供可口的家常菜。推薦黃油燒鱒魚搭配菠菜土豆泥（50庫納）。甜點可嘗試蘋果或藍莓餡點心（20庫納），還有一杯免費的李子汁或杏汁飲料。然後向西步行三個街區，來到克羅地亞國家劇院。這裏是這個國家最有聲望的演出場地，內部裝潢帶有舊世界鍍金裝飾的奢華之氣。這棟新巴洛克風格建築於1895年開放，是由奧匈帝國皇帝弗朗茲·約瑟夫(Franz Josef)興建的，目前既上演各國古典劇作，亦有現代戲劇作品、芭蕾和歌劇。本季劇目包括易卜生(Ibsen)的《玩偶之家》(A Doll’s House)和普契尼(Puccini)的《托斯卡》(Tosca)。
9. Jazzy Nightcap| 9:30 p.m.
9. 睡前爵士 | 晚9點半
Cross the main square to stroll with locals along Tkalciceva Street. Once a creek separating the contentious residents of Kaptol and Gradec, more than a century later the pedestrian-only avenue is lined with boutiques, restaurants and bars. Melin Café is a jazz lounge with a multitiered outdoor terrace and scattered landings outfitted with reclaimed furniture and retro-TV-set cocktail tables. Order a signature Blakey’s coffee (honoring the drummer Art Blakey), which combines espresso, Amaretto di Saronno, Kahlúa, cherry liqueur, Jameson, brown sugar and milk (29 kunas). Then settle in for soulful grooves under the stars.
走過主廣場，和本地人一起來到特卡拉奇切瓦街(Tkalciceva Street)。這裏曾有一條小溪把愛爭吵的卡普托爾與格拉代茨居民分開，一個多世紀之後，這裏只有一條步行街，兩側是精品店、飯館和酒吧。梅林咖啡(Melin Café)是一家爵士酒吧，有多層戶外天台和零散的平臺，配着翻修的老式傢俱和復古電視雞尾酒桌。在這裏來一杯招牌的布萊基咖啡（以爵士鼓手阿爾特·布萊基[Art Blakey]的名字命名），它混合了濃縮咖啡、薩隆諾杏仁、咖啡蜜(Kahlúa)、櫻桃利口酒、尊美醇威士忌(Jameson)、紅糖和牛奶（29庫納）。然後坐在星光下欣賞動人的旋律吧。
10. Stylish Brunch | 10 a.m.
10. 時髦早午餐 | 上午10點
Few experiences encapsulate a visit here like brunch at the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel next to the train station. Built in 1925 as a luxurious layover for travelers on the Orient Express, the iconic structure, like the Croatian capital, is a melding of European styles: Secessionist, Baroque, Art Deco and Art Nouveau. Sit in a leather armchair under chandeliers framed by huge windows in the hotel’s 1925 Lounge. With views of the sunny Green Horseshoe, order the house specialty: strukli. The handmade pastries are filled with local cottage cheese and baked until golden (60 kunas).
造訪位於火車站邊的薩格勒布遊憩酒店(Esplanade Zagreb Hotel)是最具本地風情的體驗。這座酒店建成於1925年，原本是爲東方快車乘客們興建的一座豪華中轉站。它頗具符號意義，和這座城市一樣融合了多種歐洲風格，包括分離主義、巴洛克、裝飾藝術和新藝術。來到酒店的1925休息室(1925 Lounge)，坐在皮質扶手椅上，頭頂是枝形吊燈，透過巨大的窗子觀賞陽光明媚的“綠色蹄鐵”美景，再來一樣酒店的特色：strukli，這是酒店自制的小點心，裏面塞滿本地產的鬆軟乾酪，被烤製成金黃的顏色（60庫納）。
11. Botanical Stroll | 11:30 a.m.
11. 植物之旅 | 上午11點半
Walk off your brunch at the city’s Botanical Garden, which celebrated its 125th anniversary last year (free). One block west of the Esplanade, the 11.6-acre garden has some 10,000 plant species, which surround secluded benches and grassy pond-side alcoves — perfect places to lay a blanket and reflect on your Zagreb odyssey.
吃完早午餐，步行來到城市的植物園，去年它剛剛過完125週年慶典（免費進入），從遊憩酒店向西一個街區便可到達。它佔地11.6英畝，擁有一萬餘種植物，中間有僻靜的長椅和綠蔭環繞的池塘涼亭，真是鋪塊毯子、靜靜回味這次薩格勒布之旅的好地方。
Hotel J最攀爀梔漀爀渀 (Ilica 14; ), the city’s oldest inn, underwent a complete renovation in 2011. The onetime hunter’s lodge, founded in 1827, is now a beautifully designed hotel with 16 rooms and two suites, a summer patio hosting jazz evenings, and free breakfast and parking. Located on Zagreb’s main avenue and directly underneath Upper Town, J最攀爀梔漀爀渀 is a few-minutes walk from Jelacic Square. Double rooms start at 720 kunas.
Hotel J最攀爀梔漀爀渀 (Ilica 14; )，這是這座城市最古老的酒店，2011年做過大翻新。這裏曾是獵人的住宿之地，於1827年興建，如今是一處精心設計的酒店，有16個房間和兩個套房，夏天經常主辦露天爵士晚會、有免費早餐和免費停車。位於薩格勒布主幹道，上城正下方，距離捷拉斯加廣場只有幾步路。雙人間720庫納起。
The Hotel President Pantovcak (Pantovcak 52; ) is something of a secret. Each of the 10 rooms and suites is individually designed with clean Scandinavian overtones mixed with Persian rugs and artwork from the owner’s collection. Floor-to-ceiling windows look onto a private garden, which extends to British Square (Britanski trg). The splendid terrace restaurant and lounge are open to the public but cater to hotel guests. Rooms start at 750 kunas.
The Hotel President Pantovcak (Pantovcak 52; )是個祕密。每10個房間和套房都分別按照潔淨的斯堪的納維亞風格設計，輔以波斯地毯和店主的私人藝術藏品。透過落地窗可以看到私家花園，它一直延伸到不列顛廣場(Britanski trg)。華麗的平臺餐廳和酒吧對公衆開放，但主要爲酒店住客提供食物。房間750庫納起。
